Dahab- paradise and getting there

(by Miller) We came back from Alex and really thought we’d follow our game plan to go to Luxor on the night train. Nightmare number one but really, if this is the worst it gets…we’re doing just fine. The train station is whack and after two attempts over two days for both first and second class tickets we decided that maybe our plans needed to change, as we couldn’t stare into the ticket booth and plead with Mr. Soul-less any longer. This has been the only major snag in being here during Ramadan. It’s nearing the end and it was explained that more people are traveling to be with their families. Whatever, as a result, we ended up going to Suez and then down and around the Sinai Peninsula to Dahab. Both trips are by bus so Annie was a little more than depressed, but she bucked up and put on a smile for the ride.

Anyone remember the Suez crisis? Two wars, one in 1967 and one in 1973 leveled a good portion of the area and the government has been rebuilding it since. The result is hundreds of cookie-cutter 4-story apartment buildings. Annie summed it up pretty well when she said, “Well, they needed to put the people somewhere and quick.” Suez is divided into two sections, Suez itself, and Port Tawfiq. We took a taxi from the bus stop, which in the middle of nowhere. Lonely Planet only listed two budget hotels and the sun was setting fast. It goes down around 6:15 here! Quickly found the Arafat hotel and had the passport photocopy conversation yet again with the innkeeper. The man then asked us for a tip for showing us our door after we hauled our own packs up 6 more flights of stairs (are we ever going to find a ground floor hotel?) The picture doesn’t do the room justice and the balcony was lovely, complete with lounge furniture. Didn’t feel as safe walking around as I did in Cairo and people weren’t as friendly, I guess it’s a typical port town. Headed out to dinner and walked down to the water and back. There were so many ships around and people picnic-ing in the grassy areas, breaking the fast. A restaurant called Alf-Lila had been written up for cheap, good food, I think we’re in agreement that it has passed its prime. The first floor was abandoned and we had to cross over a small stream of sewer water flowing through the doorway. On the third floor, we grabbed a table overlooking the street and canal, there were plenty available as we were the only clients. A guy sat us down and soon after we saw him walk out of the restaurant down the street to a little convenient store. Not a good sign. He made it back in about 15 minutes and had a box with sodas and water in it. When we asked what they had to eat, he had one option, a frozen pizza probably spoiled a few times over. Thanks sir, we paid for the water and left hungrier than ever but appreciative of the ridiculousness of the situation. Found a meat griller and split a HUGE plate of chicken with humus and veggie salad for about $3 each.

Full and sleepy, we walked back to the hotel, seeing much more activity than before. Woke up early the next morning and figured out the micro-buses into town for 25 piastres, about 4 cents. Didn’t really feel the need to hang around Suez, not much to see and we were excited to move on to Dahab. Our bus left at 11am and was scheduled to arrive 5 hours later. Unintentionally fasted all day but on the up side, we didn’t need any bathroom breaks. Rolled into Dahab by 7pm and were met at the bus station by two guys in a pick-up flaunting a business card saying they were from 7th Heaven hotel, where we’d planned on staying. Really? You guys are REALLY from the hotel? They assured us and we realized we didn’t have that many options as the normal swarm of taxis at bus arrival was lacking. Strapped passports and cash to our bodies and hopped in the bed of the truck. Miraculously, we arrived no problem and the guys really WERE from the hotel, Allah be praised. Annie gave me the “I told you so” look and we checked-in. The small, shared bathroom cabin we booked wasn’t ready so they gave us a bigger, personal room for the same price. Good business guys!

Everyone had been telling us we’re going to LOVE Dahab (means gold in Arabic). It’s the beach town where daily life is being on a professional vacation, Florida keys comes to mind. Once we checked in and walked out to the strip, we saw why. For about 2 kilometers along the coast of the gulf of Dahab, there is restaurant after restaurant, boutique after boutique of tourist paradise. Normally this would have made my skin crawl but the tchachkie atmosphere is overshadowed by the surrounding view of desert mountains and clearly visible Saudi Arabia 40 kilometers across the gulf.

Sat down to a not very good dinner. We’ve decided that “when in Rome” is really the best policy as Annie’s baked potato was almost raw but the humus was damn good. Had a new beer, Sakara, delicious and more flavorful than Stella, and usually comparable in price. By dinner’s end it was bedtime.

More Dahab adventures to come. We are here on the Sinai Peninsula until Wednesday. Did we snorkel or scuba? Did Annie get elevator certification? Will this man made paradise ever get old? Find out on the next installment of BWB.