and so it begins

Ok, still not in egypt but have had a lovely time since leaving Cotonou. Annie left today and has a 10 hour layover in Amsterdam until flying into Cairo at 1am and will promptly find my gate and pass out with a sign saying wake me at 6am until I get there, inshallah (god willing). here's a quick rundown on what has gone on thus far. I, Rachael Miller, am a returned peace corps volunteer (RPCV)!!! As of September 11, I signed my papers, handed back my moto helmet and left the bureau in Cotonou. That week was full of report writing, meetings, and general running around, compounded with last minute trip stuff like getting visas for Togo and Ghana. Oddly, there were no snags and paperwork cleared smoothly. Things also went well at the banks where I had to cash my Peace Corps checks, I LOVE when things work! So, armed with my passport full of documentation, cash in pocket, and clean intestines, I caught a taxi to the border. I guess the stars were perfectly aligned because I had to go Cotonou to Togo border; border to Lome (Togolese capital), Lome to Ghana border, border to Accra (Ghanaian capital). I never waited more than 10 minutes for my car to leave and didn't have to kill anyone over a price discussion. Upon arrival in Accra, where I vacationed last year, I caught a taxi to the OSU district to try and find the Salvation Army where we stayed last time. After checking out other hotel rates, upwards of $20 a night, I was REALLY trying to find the hostel, which is $6 a bed and much more my style; no running water and other dirty travelers. Walked myself all around for at least 45 minutes and just as the skin was tearing off my feet, sweet victory! Snagged the last bed in a dorm and passed out for an hour or so. There were a ton of other folks around but decided to head out for a solo dinner, also in search of a large Castle Milk Stout, quite possibly the best beer in West Africa. Walked the strip for awhile, found a nice open air bar with bumping music (which would deter unwanted conversation), ordered a plate of ocean fish and banku (the Ghanaian akassa but more sour and stickier), and had a lovely date with my Stout. Some kid did try and sit to chat as the social sharks are wont to do in the tourist areas. Said twice I just couldn't hear him and didn't want to talk and spaced out as he continued to sit at my table and stare...at me. Oh Benin, how you've hardened my soul. Walked home, which took me about and hour as I got slightly turned around in the back roads but never felt in danger. Accra is a large capital city with it's fair share of crime but I really do feel safe here, more so than in Cotonou where I've never had a problem either. Met two roomies back at the ranch, German and Swiss ladies who were super nice and chatty. They're in Ghana for a few months doing a mini-Peace Corps-esque thing. The door opened and low and behold, Peace Corps Benin folk! Two psl-20-ers on their way back to Benin. It was pretty funny as it really confused the other two roommates. We all passed out early and had a lazy morning of packing and re-packing. Annie and I decided to take packs the size of book bags in the hopes of avoiding checking luggage. So far so good and it has forced me to shed about a third of my load already. I have no idea how Annie is bringing her hiking boots along, I'm hoping I'll be able to find a used pair in Nepal to wear for the trek and then give away. Ounces equal pounds, pounds equal pain! Still trying to adapt to the thought that I am not going back to Guinagourou and don't really need to consume as many croissants and cups of coffee as possible because, for the most part, those things will be accessible from now on. As are internet hook-up, electricity and running water. Bizarre. I'm off to find a kente cloth that will double as a scarf in colder climates and savor another Stout or two before I get on the plane around 10 tonight. Also going to visit the Koala supermarket to grab some snacks for Annie and I as we will be traveling in the land of Ramadan and rather than eat at the expensive tourist spots( allegedly, the only food joints open during the day during the fast), we're hoping to get fresh foods from the market and do it on the cheap. Looking forward to the 4am call to prayer and the sunset breaking of fast.