Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Say WAT!?

(By Annie)

After two wonderful train rides I guess we had a lot of hope for Cambodia, but one thing we have learned after three months of traveling is that no matter the language, country, or currency all border towns are shit holes (Sorry for swearing grams). We fairly effortlessly passed through Thai and Cambodian Immigration and then went to a bank to change some money and get smaller American dollars.

Lonely planet warned and warned about the bus scams on the border and apparently in their caution failed to mention there really are no afternoon busses ANYWHERE. So, after walking around aimlessly for a half hour we ate some lunch and then proceeded to bargain for a taxi. I was pissed off by this point and so Rachael took the reigns. We ended up paying $10 a person to take a taxi, which we thought was just for us, but ended up being shared. Even with three people in the back I was a little cramped and crabby, and the fact I did that for years in Benin still baffles me.

Finally, three hours later we were in Siem Reap, or the foothills of the 8th wonder of the world – Ankor Wat. After dogging a few touts our taxi driver wanted to pass us off to we actually found our hotel the Jasmine Lodge. It was the best deal in town and for $9 we shared an elegant suite with Cable TV and a hot shower.

Siem Reap was easy to navigate and we made it to the strip of bars aptly named Bar Street. There we treated ourselves to hamburgers and pitchers at a bar called Ankor What? As someone who completely adores plays on words, they were everywhere. After our burgers we headed over to Funky Munky to play trivia for a cause. Every Thursday this bar hosts a charity and then collects money from tourists and ex-pats. I am not allowed to tell you how much Rachael got into this game – oppss. But, team Yes We Can, finished in dead last. However, Wild Bill was pretty pleased.

The next day we made an executive decision to take in Siem Reap and then go and buy our tickets via bicycle to the Ankor Wat complex. During our explorations we literally stumbled on the brand spanking new Ankor Wat museum. Marvelous and a little expensive this state of the art museum took us through the Khmer Empire explaining all the temples and religious symbolism masterfully. It really is a must see and exactly what we needed before taking in the Wats or temples.

After the museum we saddled up and rode the 6 kilometers to Ankor Wat. We stopped and bought our pass – a whopping $20 dollars, but how can you really put a price on the wonders of the world. The main actual Ankor Wat is a massive complex complete with moats, dikes, and massive sandstone structures that are over a thousand years old. Rachael took lots of photos and I meandered along. After taking in the sunset we left for bar street and more beer on tap.

Day two was exploring Ankor Wat via Tuk Tuk or a motorcycle horse drawn carriage ride. I originally was not smitten with Ankor Wat but after spending the better part of six hours crossing these amazing structures you cannot help but be impressed – seeing the temples’ shear size and the marvelously meticulous figures. It is easy to see why movies like Laura Croft Tomb Raider used the rubbles to depict old gnarly bad ass-ness. Rachael and I both agreed that Bayon was our favorite temple. Everywhere you walked there was literally eyes watching you, said to resemble the king himself.

After our carriage ride concluded we napped and tried to watch some rugby. But, we ended up trying bar after bar with no avail – the channel was not coming in and so internet and more draft beer became an appropriate substitute. Finally, we headed back to the hotel and watched South Africa trounce England during our final night in Siem Reap. What? Wat!

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