What goes up, must come down (Thank god!)

As we stated many times before, the plan for Nepal was centered on a two-week trek in the Annapurna Mountains. Well, we have survived and made it back in only ten days. We climbed up a mountain over 14,000 feet, hiked over 45 hours, made weird friends, and saw majestic views. Obviously to blog about every day would get a little repetitive, so instead we will lay out our ten day schedule, and then give our takes. - Annie

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek
October 13th – 22nd
Day 1: Bus ride to Phedi from Pokhara
Phedi to Pothana (3 hours 30 minutes)
Day 2: Pothana to Newbridge (5 hours 30 minutes)
Day 3: Newbridge to Sinuwa (6 hours 30 minutes)
Day 4: Sinuwa to Bamboo (2 hours 30 minutes)
*We could not go any father because there were no rooms higher.
Day 5: Bamboo to Himalaya (4 hours)
Day 6: Himalaya to Machhapuchhre Base Camp (4 hours 45 minutes)
* We are at 3,700 meters and it is very cold by 1:00 p.m.
Day 7: Machhapuchhre to Annapurna Base Camp (2 hours)
Annapurna Base Camp to Bamboo (6 hours 30 minutes)
Day 8: Bamboo to Chhomrong (4 hours 15 minutes)
Day 9: Chhomrong to Syauli Bazar (7 hours)
Day 10: Syauli Bazar to Naya Pul (1 hour 30 minutes)
Bus ride back to Pokhara

Annie’s Take: “I have no trekking style.”
Well, I am finally off my feet and resting. I must admit; I have always liked walking. For some reason never running, but walking was something you could do to take in the sights and get somewhere at the same time. I loved walking places in college because it made you calm down and relax. Well, trekking and walking are two very different verbs. I will never be a trekker. However, I am so glad I faked everyone out, and did it…just this once…in Nepal.

A mountain goes up, I am not really sure how I could have forgotten this part. And, I really cannot go up. I know, I know. After about two minutes I get out of breathe and it takes me about 15 to 30 minutes longer than an old Japanese grandmother. Its funny, I get super competitive about everything else, but I waved happily as the grandma coasted by. I looked nice, but really it was just a good excuse to rest. Poor Rachael was a large version of “Where’s Waldo.” She would scurry up the hill about 5 minutes until we made eye contact and then trek off again. It was a really bad version of a typical Tom and Jerry cartoon. This was 30 hours worth of our 45-hour trek. She seriously is a trekking rock star and I am not worthy. The little Grazel Adams, as I started calling her, was so outwardly patient with me, and really the only reason I made it up and down. We didn’t have a guide and porter, but who needs one with Rachael on your side.

So now that I’ve covered the boring parts and the tired parts, I guess I will end on the amazing parts. The best part about the Annapurna Mountains is that they are right there all the time. Almost every night we got to see first hand the progress we were making and those large peaks got closer and closer. During the final days and even hours I just had to stop looking up. It was so deafening and addicting to look at where we were and I couldn’t stop marveling at just how close we got. They say base camp and we truly were right at the base.

Then, we got to go down! I can’t do up, but I can sprint down a mountain. We made it half way in one day and I guess I finally felt trekker-like as this time the Japanese grandma had nothing on me. The biggest challenge going down is not to do it too fast, because your feet really do get ahead of you.

All in all, I am so glad that I did it and maybe under the right circumstances would even do it again. Trekkers are a weird bunch, so evenings at the lodges were fun and Rachael and I fit right in. Take a look at some of the quotes that came out of these evenings, there is little more I can add. Except, climbed a mountain, lived to tell about it, and most importantly am wearing the t-shirt as we speak.

Miller’s take – Well, we did it.

I thought scuba was the end all, be all of fabulous experiences I was going to have on this trip. FALSE! Trekking is something I’ve always read, heard, and watched about but never done. Nepal just opened that Pandora’s box. I am in love with the mountains and this has been the beginning of a beautiful relationship.

First of all, despite what Annie may have alluded to, she did fine. Those damn Japanese grammys are just too scrappy. We did learn that we have very different styles, likes and dislikes, strengths and weaknesses; but at the end of the day, nothing felt better than a high five, a plate of momos (dumplings), and cold beer. We didn’t figure the beer out until the way down which is why the first 7 days were a little tense. Things also get much more expensive as you go up because someone had to carry it there on his back. I say “his” because 98% of porters are men, though the few women we did see were just as strong.

Anyways, the whole way up, the Annapurna range is right in front of you; Annapurna south and a few other peaks directly ahead, Machhapurche (Fishtail Mt.) to the right. We took over 300 photos, and the majority are scenic shots- in fact, we now have to do a youtube photo montage because there are just too many. (I am STILL loving my camera!)

The teahouses or lodges we stayed at were great, some had solar showers, some even had gas-heated showers but most importantly, they all let us use their heavy yak wool blankets. You see, Annie and I decided to forgo the usual accompaniment of a guide and porter and hoof it all ourselves. This meant we took significantly less “stuff” than anyone else we ran into. Among the “stuff” we chose to leave behind, were sleeping bags, gloves, full jackets, and at times, common sense. All the lodges were family run and some of the mamas were a real hoot. For between 100 and 200 rupees (2 to 3 dollars) we had beds, showing up late meant sleeping in the dining hall but we were really lucky and didn’t have any problems. Encounters with Aussies, Irishmen, Indians, Japanese, South Africans, Dutchmen, Koreans, Americans, Brits, and yes even some Nepali, gave us great entertainment and interesting conversation. Sad to say, I take it as a compliment when folks said we didn’t behave as “normal Americans”, but think what you will.

Finally, we hit the camp right before the base camp (MBC) and stopped for the day. It was only noon but going higher would have been suicidal as even at MBC the temperature dropped to 28 degrees F. Drank countless cups of outrageously expensive tea, just to keep our hands warm and were in bed by 8. (actually a late night by trekking standards) Decided to get going at 5:15 am to see the sunrise, see the mountain then get the hell off it while our blood was still circulating. The whole walk up was illuminated by literal golden rays of sunshine warming the frozen scrub grass and melting the ice that had formed overnight on the moving stream of runoff water from the peak. Bundled in everything we had, bandanas wrapped around our hands, we made it shortly after sunup and walked out to see the glacial crevasse formed eons ago. The force that is the Annapurna range is breath taking. I can only imagine what the climbers who make the summit must feel because just standing at the base of the monstrosity makes one feel small, unsafe, and empowered all at once.

Took the requisite photos, walked around a bit, then sat down for coffee before saying goodbye. We’d done it, and on our own!

The descent took only two days as Annie said, and thank god because the boots I’d picked up in Pokhara destroyed my feet. Fairly certain I’ll be loosing toe nails and I’m cleaning my feet hourly so I don’t get a staff infection from all my open blisters.

Came back to Pokhara and ate a steak dinner last night that was so rich it almost came back up (but in a good way ☺ ) It’s been fun seeing people around town who we met up there. We’re SO in the club now. Annie did in fact, buy the tshirt (as did I) as did a million other people; and why not? We earned it.